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Adam Rapoport on 'The Grilling Book'

Adam Rapoport on 'The Grilling Book'

The Bon Appétit editor-in-chief talks about his summer-friendly book

With Memorial Day weekend behind us, grilling season is officially in full effect. And while we all probably like to think of ourselves as masters of the grill, sometimes we all need a little bit of help — and a few more ideas to stop our hamburgers and hot dogs from feeling like boring old standbys.

So to get some tips and tricks we caught up with Adam Rapoport, Bon Appétit's editor-in-chief. He has started off his summer right by editing a new book called, aptly, The Grilling Book. The book not only has a wide range of recipes, it also has a lot of technique and other basics to turn your grilling from standard fare into chef-worthy creations.

Watch the video above to hear all of Rapoport's tips and also learn which recipes from the book are his favorites! And if you want to get grilling season started on the right foot, make sure to pick up a copy of the book.


These 4 Recipes Are Breaking Me Out of a Grilling Rut

Every Monday night, Bon Appétit editor in chief Adam Rapoport gives us a peek inside his brain by taking over our newsletter. He shares recipes he’s been cooking, restaurants he’s been eating at, and more. It gets better: If you sign up for our newsletter, you’ll get this letter before everyone else.

Let’s forget about ribs and rib eyes.

This is the summer I grill something different.

I’ve always thought of grilling less as a means of cooking, and more as a set roster of dishes. For big gatherings, I fire up my “famous” ribs, and everyone asks how they get so crispy, while remaining fall-apart tender. (Hint: Slow-cook in the oven, then shellack with sauce over a live fire.)

For good friends, I splurge on a dry-aged rib eye and I then brag about the deeply seared, perfectly medium-rare finished product like a dad talks proudly about his child. Except I’m afraid I’m guilty of sharing photos of my rib eyes even more often than I do of my 10-year-old son.

How do I break out of my routine when, like many of us, it’s so easy to fall back on what works?

Best-Ever Barbecued Ribs

Well, first, I’ll riff on what I already know. I recently came upon some lamb ribs at a local farm stand. I took the same approach as BA’s ultimate ribs, seasoning them with a basic dry rub, and pre-cooking them in the oven before finishing them on a medium-hot grill (beware of flare-ups they’re plenty fatty). Because I had no pomegranate syrup, as our recipe by Seamus Mullen calls for, I simmered some honey with smashed garlic cloves and a pinch of chili flakes. When the nicely charred ribs came off the grill, I painted them with the garlic-infused honey. Sweet, smoky, crispy, meaty. Wow.

And because I know I’m adept at developing a quality sear on a steak while hitting the just-right doneness, why not apply that touch to something other than a rib eye? I loved the article in our June/July issue on grilling cuts of meat we typically braise. In winter months, I’m all about pork shoulder and brisket, simmered slowly a Dutch oven. But did you know can take either cut and throw it on your grill?

Grilled Brisket with Scallion-Peanut Salsa

For the grilled brisket, senior food editor Chris Morocco freezes the meat for about 45 minutes, which allows him to thinly slice it, about ⅛" thick. Into an Asian-inspired marinade it goes, a quick turn on a hot grill, and then it’s finished with a scallion peanut sauce. Brisket like you’ve never had before.

Pork Shoulder Steaks with Grilled Mustard Greens

As for the pork shoulder, it means asking a butcher to carve the boneless cut into ¾"-thick steaks. Because it’s seamed with so much intramuscular fat, it yields an addictively flavorful and juicy steak. I couldn’t stop nipping at it when senior associate food editor Molly Baz was developing the recipe in the Test Kitchen.

Charred Cabbage with Goat Cheese Raita and Cucumbers

Finally, because you can’t survive on meat alone (I think?), I’m going to diversify my vegetable game. On a recent episode of the BA Foodcast about trying to lead a more vegetable-forward life, food director Carla Lalli Music got me all excited to grill cabbage. Who knew? We have a recipe for charred purple cabbage with a cooling mint raita and cucumbers. It’s officially now on my to-grill list.


Review

About the Author

Adam Rapoport is Editor-in-Chief of Bon Appétit magazine and its website bonappetit.com. Before coming to Bon Appétit , he was GQ 's Style Editor, where he covered food, travel, fashion, design, film, and music. He edited the restaurant section at Time Out New York for three years and worked as an editor and writer for the James Beard Foundation's publications office. Rapoport is a graduate of the University of California, Berkeley and currently lives in Manhattan with his wife and their son.


The Grilling Book by Adam Rapoport



Author:Adam Rapoport
Language: eng
Format: mobi, epub, azw3
ISBN: 9781449431389
Publisher: Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC
Published: 2013-02-27T06:00:00+00:00

INGREDIENT INFO Miso comes in various shades, ranging from white to brown. The lighter varieties are less salty and mellower in flavor than the darker ones. The white miso called for here is aged for just a few months. White miso, also known as shiro miso, and mirin are available at Japanese markets and natural foods stores and in the Asian foods section of some supermarkets.

4 Steps to Grilling Whole Fish

Grilling a whole small fish—like branzino, rainbow trout, or black bass—is one of the great treats of the grill. The skin protects the flesh, the bones keep the meat moist, and you can stuff the cavity with citrus, herbs, and spices. The following method works best for a fish in the 1- to 3-lb. range.


Summer grilling: Bone-in chicken

We're counting down to Memorial Day, the unofficial start to the summer grilling season and one of the most popular times to grill outdoors. To help you along, we are offering a week's worth of sure-fire grilling tips and 'cue-worthy recipes.

Today's grilling tip: Master grilling bone-in and skin-on chicken. If you pay attention to the chicken bone-in and skin-on on the grill and master a few easy steps, you won't end up with chicken that's charred on one side (with the skin burned way beyond golden brown) and still raw in the middle.

Summer grilling: Perfect burgers

  • Use a two-zone fire, where the heat is medium-hot in one part and cooler in another. The cooler part can be an area with no heat source at all (indirect heat) or very low heat. To set up the grill for indirect heat, bank the coals to one side of a charcoal grill. For a gas grill, leave one burner (or two if you have a four-burner grill) on low or completely off.
  • Grill chicken (we used thighs in today's recipe), skin side up first and over lower heat, letting some of the fat render from the skin. This does two things: It prevents flare-ups because the fat renders slowly and it helps crisp the skin nicely.
  • Use a rub on the skin that has cornstarch as an ingredient. The cornstarch will absorb excess moisture in the skin, allowing it to crisp.

Today's recipe for Dixie Chicken Thighs is adapted from "The Grilling Book: The Definitive Guide from Bon Appetit" by Adam Rapoport (Andrews McMeel, $45). This recipe can be prepped in advance. Although it's not necessary, a final brushing of spicy butter pairs well with the spice rub.

Summer grilling: Brining salmon

Serves: 8 / Preparation: 15 minutes (plus standing time for chicken) / Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons (packed) golden brown sugar

2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 teaspoon lemon-pepper seasoning with garlic and onion

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

16 bone-in and skin-on chicken thighs (about 6 ounces each) or substitute chicken breasts or legs or chicken leg quarters

1 sourdough baguette, cut on diagonal into ¾-inch-thick slices

Broccoli and Bell Pepper Slaw (see note)

In a small bowl combine all the rub ingredients and blend well. Transfer 1 tablespoon spice rub to medium bowl add butter and mix well. (Rub and seasoned butter can be made 2 days ahead. Cover separately. Chill butter. Bring butter to room temperature before using.)

Trim any excess fat from the chicken thighs. Pat the chicken pieces dry with paper towels. Sprinkle spice rub over both sides of chicken pieces. Arrange chicken pieces on waxed-paper-lined baking sheets. Cover chicken with more waxed paper and let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.

Prepare a grill for two zones of heat, low-medium and medium-high heat. Reserve 4 tablespoons seasoned butter. Spread remaining seasoned butter on 1 side of baguette slices. Place bread slices on platter and cover.

Place the chicken on the grill, skin side up over indirect heat (the cooler part of the grill), cover and grill about 15-20 minutes. Turn chicken over. Grill until skin is deep golden brown, about 15 minutes. Turn chicken again and move to the hotter part of the grill and continue grilling, skin side up, until cooked through (no red shows when chicken is cut at thigh bone), about 5 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to platter. Brush chicken with reserved 4 tablespoons seasoned butter.

Grill bread until just golden, about 2 minutes per side. Arrange toasts around chicken and serve.

Cook's note: For the Broccoli and Bell Pepper slaw, mix together one 10-ounce bag of broccoli slaw, 1 heaping cup of mixed bell pepper slices, 1 bunch sliced green onion and 1 cup favorite slaw dressing.

Adapted from "The Grilling Book: The Definitive Guide from Bon Appetit" by Adam Rapoport (Andrews McMeel Publishing, $45).

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen. Analysis per 1 chicken thigh.

312 calories (61% from fat), 21 grams fat ( 10 grams sat. fat), 18 grams carbohydrates, 13 grams protein, 1,104 mg sodium, 78 mg cholesterol, 1 gram fiber.


Epicurious Attempts To Right Cultural Wrongs One Recipe At A Time

NEW YORK (AP) — With a new Black editor in chief and ambitious promises to do better, a little corner of the Conde Nast universe is taking on racial and cultural injustice one recipe at a time.

Since July, the small staff at Epicurious, a resource site for home cooks, has been scouring 55 years' worth of recipes from a variety of Conde Nast magazines in search of objectionable titles, ingredient lists and stories told through a white American lens.

“It came after Black Lives Matter, after a lot of consciousness-raising among the editors and staff," said David Tamarkin, the white digital director for Epicurious. "It came out of conversations that we had about how we can do better, where are we failing and where have our predecessors failed?”

Called the Archive Repair Project, the work is also an outgrowth of complaints and controversies at Conde Nast. But it's just one effort on a full plate of initiatives, said Sonia Chopra, who's been executive editor of Bon Appetit and Epicurious for about four months, working under the new editor in chief, Dawn Davis.

In all, the 25-year-old site (with a staff of 10) is a repository of a massive 35,000 recipes from Bon Appetit, Gourmet, Self, House & Garden and Epicurious itself. They stretch back to 1965.

“The language that we use to talk about food has evolved so much from, sure, the 1960s but also the 1990s, and I think it is our duty as journalists, as people who work in food media, to make sure that we are reflecting that appropriately," Chopra said.

Epicurious and Bon Appetit have been at the center of accusations that also plague others in the food world: undervaluing staffers of color, perpetuating structural racism, racial and gender discrimination, and more. Some of those issues led several Bon Appetit employees to leave earlier this year after Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapoport resigned over a 2004 Halloween “brownface” photo and amid allegations of racial discrimination.

While Conde Nast studies pay equity, and has issued apologies and pledges to do such things as expand unconscious-bias education and create inclusion and diversity plans, the Archive Repair Project rolls on.

The bulk of Epicurious site traffic goes to the archive, mostly recipes but also articles and other editorial work, Tamarkin and Chopra said.

“Being such an old site, we’re full of a lot of ideas about American cooking that really go through a white lens," Tamarkin said. “We know that American cooking is Mexican American cooking and Indian American cooking and Nigerian American cooking, that that’s the kind of cooking that’s really happening in this country every day.”

One of the first issues “repaired,” he said, was use of the word “exotic.”

“I can’t think of any situation where that word would be appropriate, and yet it’s all over the site,” Tamarkin said. “That’s painful for me and I’m sure others.”

Another word requiring removal was a lime reference that included a racial slur directed at Black Africans, particularly in South Africa.

Other terms, such as “authentic" and “ethnic,” are also among repairs.

The work, Chopra said, is “certainly something that I think not just Conde Nast brands but all over food media and media in general are really thinking about.”

Since July, when Tamarkin outlined the project on Epicurious, he and his staff have fixed about 200 recipes and other work. Some repairs are more complicated than removing a single word, such as an entire story about the “ethnic” aisle at the grocery store.

“We have published recipes with headnotes that fail to properly credit the inspirations for the dish, or degrade the cuisine the dish belongs to. We have purported to make a recipe `better' by making it faster, or swapping in ingredients that were assumed to be more familiar to American palates, or easier to find. We have inferred (and in some cases outright labeled) ingredients and techniques to be ‘surprising’ or `weird.' And we have published terminology that was widely accepted in food writing at the time, and that we now recognize has always been racist,” Tamarkin wrote.

He noted: “Certainly there will be times when our edits do not go far enough some of our repairs will need repairs.”

For Bon Appetit, that's exactly what happened when an outcry among readers led it to make multiple changes including the headnote and references to Haiti on a pumpkin soup recipe put forth by Chef Marcus Samuelsson, a guest editor. The magazine referred to it as soup joumou, a beloved Haitian staple that symbolizes the country's bloody liberation from its French colonizers.

It was not soup joumou, but was intended by Samuelsson as an homage. The magazine adapted an entry from one of his cookbooks, “The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food.” Both Bon Appetit and Samuelsson, who is Black, apologized after calls of erasure and cultural appropriation.

Much of food media is facing race and ethnicity fallout that can be traced to white dominance in the highest echelons of the field. On the Epicurious repair project, for instance, just 31% of the people identifying and fixing the archive are staff of color.

Chopra said broader plans are in motion.

“We're committed to building teams that are inclusive and thoughtful, and that means always assessing and reassessing our policies and processes. As we transition into 2021 with new leadership, we are examining these across the board, from hiring best practices to making sure we are communicating and working collaboratively and holistically across teams and platforms,” Chopra added.

In the meantime, Tamarkin and his crew are slowly pressing on with their archive repairs at Epicurious, where “Asian” is no longer the name of a cold rice noodle salad, and a vadouvan spice blend has lost its mention as “exotic.”

“A lot of these problems happened because there was a lack of thoughtfulness," Tamarkin said, "so the solutions require that we be thoughtful now.”


Recipes: How to grill perfect chicken and other keys to a great Labor Day cookout

Under normal circumstances, the Labor Day grill sizzles with burgers, brats and hot dogs. That’s fine. But considering the pandemic that is gripping our world, a change of pace might be welcomed. There always seems to be part of the gathering that cheers for chicken. Or more precisely, chicken breasts, the high protein white meat that is lower in fat and calories. Bless their little hearts.

Chicken breasts on the grill can be challenging. Grill too long and the lack of fat makes them taste like sawdust. Don’t heat long enough and they can present a genuine health hazard. You know that the bird should be cooked through, yet moist with well-browned skin. Getting it exactly right can be frustrating.

A few years ago, I consulted with grilling guru, PBS-TV host and cookbook author Steven Raichlen about grilling chicken breasts. I was impressed with the tasty solutions in his book “Barbecue Sauces, Rubs and Marinades” (Workman, $17.95), particularly the pages devoted to marinades, concoctions that help to make grilled chicken breasts delicious.

He told me that soaking chicken breasts in a tasty marinade for a couple of hours in the refrigerator is a flavor game changer. “The Only Marinade You Will Ever Need” is Raichlen’s go-to Mediterranean mix for a wide variety of meats, as well as vegetables. Redolent with garlic and vibrant with fresh lemon juice and zest, the mixture can be used as a marinade, but set some aside to use for basting the chicken breasts as they cook (always discard any marinade used for marinating).

Which chicken breast to use: Raichlen said that he prefers chicken thighs, but grills breasts because his family and friends prefer them. He likes bone-in, skin-on breasts because the bones add flavor. I agree, but if it’s a knife and fork meal, I prefer them boned. At my supermarket, there aren’t any skin-on, boneless chicken breasts in the case. Large breasts with skin and bones are sold in four-or eight-to-a-pack. I carry the package to the butcher and ask him to bone them. I’ve never been charged for the pleasure of having an expert remove bones from flesh. (Yes I can do it myself, but I never seem to end up with as much meat as when the butcher does it.)

Instant-read thermometer: It’s an absolute necessity to judge when the chicken is done. He said to insert the probe parallel to the top and have the tip in the core 165 is the desired temperature. Because the meat’s temperature comes up a few degrees after it is removed from the grill, he takes it off at 160 degrees and sets it on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and covers it very loosely with aluminum foil.

Skin-side up: A big eyeopener for me was his suggestion to start grilling chicken breasts with the skin up. He says there is less sticking that way. And I’ve tried it many times, and he is correct.

Here is what I find on my gas grill, but cooking times vary depending on differences in home grills:

Large bone-in and skin-on chicken breasts or large bone-out and skin on: Weighing in at about 13 ounces to 14 1/2 ounces, they take approximately 25 minutes to grill. Lift marinated chicken to let most of marinade drip off. On medium-hot, oiled grill, arrange skin-up, leaving a space clear to move them if there is a flare up. With lid open, grill about 6 to 7 minutes. Turn skin-down and grill about 5 minutes with lid closed, checking to make sure it isn’t scorching after about 3 minutes. Reposition, rotating 45 degrees and grill 3 to 5 minutes. Turn skin side up grill about 12 to 14 minutes more (close lid for about 5 to 8 minutes to bring up the temp). Test with instant read thermometer, placing it horizontal (side to side) resting in center (but not on a bone) it should read 160 degrees. Allow to sit 5 minutes off heat and temp will come up to 165 degrees.

Boneless skinless chicken breasts: At about 6 to 8 ounces each, they grill in just a few minutes. Marinate 1 to 2 hours, reserving about 3 tablespoons marinade to use for basting discard marinade used to marinate. Lift breasts from marinade, letting it drip back before placing in grill. On hot, oiled grill, arrange all going the same direction. Grill 2 minutes using tongs rotate breasts 45 degrees and grill 2 to 4 minutes more. This creates crosshatch grill marks. Baste with reserved marinade but not a marinade that contains sugar or honey (and not marinade used to marinate). Turn with tongs and grill other side 2 minutes. The total cooking time is approximately 4 to 6 minutes. Test with instant read thermometer, placing it horizontal (side to side) it should read 160 degrees. Allow to sit 5 minutes and it will come up to 165 degrees.

The Only Marinade You’ll Ever Need

“The Only Marinade You’ll Ever Need” is from Steven Raichlen’s cookbook “Barbecue Rubs, Sauces and Marinades.” (Photo by Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Yield: 1 cup, enough for about 1 pound of meat, poultry or seafood, double recipe if needed

INGREDIENTS

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt, such as kosher, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon cracked or coarsely ground peppercorns, or to taste

Optional: 1/2 teaspoon dried red chili flakes

3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed with side of cleaver, minced

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, oregano or cilantro

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

PROCEDURE

1. Combine lemon zest, juice, salt, pepper and dried red chili flakes (if using) in a nonreactive (glass, ceramic or stainless steel) bowl and whisk until salt crystals are dissolved. Stir in garlic and herbs. Stir or whisk in oil.

2. For chicken breasts: If desired, reserve about 2 tablespoons of marinade to use to brush chicken as it grills. Marinate 1 to 3 hours, covered in the refrigerator (I like to use a zipper-closing plastic bag). Discard marinade used to marinate chicken. Grill on medium-high heat, starting with skin up, until center reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Let rest 5 minutes off grill and meat will reach 165 degrees.

Chimichurri

The Argentinan garnish chimichurri is a luscious accompaniment to almost anything off the grill, including chicken breasts. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)

Chimichurri, that bright-green sauce that is a staple in Argentina, is served with that country’s legendary steaks. It’s also a luscious accompaniment to almost anything off the grill, including chicken breasts. Serve it on the side for guests to spoon on the bird to suit their tastes. If desired, cut the ingredients in half if serving a small group. It can be prepared a couple of hours in advance and stored airtight in the refrigerator.

Yield: About 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more if needed

3 large garlic cloves, minced

1/2 fresh jalapeno chili or red Fresno chili, seeded, finely chopped

2 cups minced fresh cilantro

1 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh oregano

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

PROCEDURE

1. Combine vinegar, salt, garlic, shallot and chili in medium bowl allow to sit for 10 minutes.

2. Stir in cilantro, parsley and oregano. Using a fork, whisk in oil. Taste adjust salt if needed.

Source: Adapted from “The Grilling Book” from Bon Appetit, edited by Adam Rapoport (Andrews McMeel, $45)

Easy Potato Salad

Potato salad is the perfect side dish to a holiday weekend cookout and it’s easy to make. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)

Potato salad seems an essential component at a end-of-summer gathering. There’s nothing complicated about it basically, it is boiled potatoes tossed with a mustardy vinaigrette spiked with fresh herbs. The recipe is open to loads of variations. I like to include hard-cooked eggs as a protein-packed garnish to please the vegetarians in the crowd. If serving away from home, I pack the peeled whole eggs in a container with ice and add them to the salad at the event. Other potential add-ons include chopped, small gherkin pickles (cornichons), or finely diced red onion.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 3/4 pounds small white potatoes, such as Baby Dutch Yellow potatoes, or small red potatoes

Vinaigrette: 1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, 1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 3 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons drained capers

About 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

About 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

About 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

Optional: 3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled, chilled, quartered lengthwise

PROCEDURE

1. Place whole potatoes in large saucepan or Dutch oven and add cold water to cover. Add a good pinch of salt. Bring to boil on high heat partially cover and reduce heat to gently boil for about 10 minutes, or until potatoes are just fork tender. Drain in colander.

2. Meanwhile, prepare vinaigrette in large bowl. Whisk vinegar, salt, pepper and mustard until combined. Add oil in thin stream, whisking to combine.

3. When potatoes are cool enough to handle but still warm, cut each in half lengthwise and add to bowl with vinaigrette (stir vinaigrette before adding first potato). Toss (I use a silicone or rubber spatula to prevent breakage). Add capers, chives, parsley and dill toss. Taste and adjust salt if needed.

4. If using eggs, just before serving, add eggs and gently toss (or use the eggs as garnish).

Berry-Peach Ice Cream

This raspberry ice cream is served with fresh rasberries and fresh mint. (Photo by Nick Koon)

If celebrating at home, ice cream seems the absolute best dessert choice, either served in cones or scooped into cups. This delicious homemade option celebrates summertime fruit. If desired, add a little brandy to the mix alcohol lowers the freezing point, so allow extra processing time because it will take longer to freeze.

Yield: 2 quarts

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen (thawed) blackberries or raspberries

2 cups peeled, diced peaches

1 (7-ounce) jar marshmallow crème or fluff

Optional: 2 tablespoons Brandy

PROCEDURE

1. Puree berries and peaches in a food processor. Press puree through a medium-fine sieve discard seeds left in sieve.

2. Beat eggs in bowl of electric mixer. Add sugar and marshmallow crème mix on medium speed until well combined. Add cream, half and half, fruit puree and if using, Brandy mix until completely combined. Cover and chill at least 1 hour.

3. Stir and process in ice cream machine according to manufacturer’s directions.


Recipe: Pumpkin Chiffon Pie

Bon Appetit

From Bon Appétit's November 2019 issue, a Thanksgiving dessert recipe from Adam Rapoport:

"This light-as-can-be pumpkin chiffon pie gets its cloudlike texture from the addition of beaten raw egg whites. (If that's not your thing, try our Pecan Rye Pumpkin Pie.) Be sure to take them all the way to stiff peaks for a slice of pie that can hold its shape.

"Parbaking the graham cracker crust at a relatively low temperature for a longer period of time ensures a crisp and deeply fragrant crust that won't become soggy once the pumpkin filling is added."

Pumpkin Chiffon Pie

Recipe by Adam Rapoport
Makes one 9" deep-dish pie

12 graham crackers
2 Tbsp. sugar
¼ tsp. kosher salt
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled

Filling and Assembly:

1 envelope unflavored gelatin (2½ tsp.)
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
¾ (scant) cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar, divided
¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 large egg yolks
¾ cup whole milk
1¼ cups unsweetened pumpkin purée (from one 15-oz. can)
3 large egg whites
¾ cup heavy cream
¼ cup sour cream

  • Preheat oven to 325°. Pulse graham crackers in a food processor until broken down into fine crumbs (you should have about 2 cups). Set aside 2 Tbsp. graham cracker crumbs for serving. Add sugar and salt and pulse just to combine. Add butter and pulse until mixture is the consistency of wet sand.
  • Transfer to a 9½"-diameter deep pie dish. Using a measuring cup, press crumbs firmly onto bottom and up sides of dish. Bake crust until fragrant and edges just start to take on color, 20&ndash25 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool.

Filling and Assembly:

  • Stir gelatin, cinnamon, nutmeg, a scant ½ cup sugar, and ½ tsp. salt in a small saucepan. Whisk egg yolks and milk in a small bowl to combine, then whisk into sugar mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until mixture begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon (but do not let it boil), about 5 minutes. Stir in pumpkin purée and remove from heat. Transfer to a large bowl and chill until cool, about 10 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat egg whites in a large bowl until soft peaks form. With the motor running, gradually add a scant ¼ cup sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks form, 5&ndash7 minutes.
  • Mix one-third of egg white mixture into chilled pumpkin mixture until smooth. Gently fold remaining egg white mixture into pumpkin mixture in 2 additions until incorporated, but don't overmix.
  • Pour filling into graham cracker crust smooth top. Cover and chill overnight.
  • Vigorously whisk cream in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Fold in sour cream and remaining 2 Tbsp. sugar and ¼ tsp. salt just to combine. Using a large spoon, dollop a generous amount of whipped cream in the center of pie. Sprinkle with reserved graham cracker crumbs. Slice and serve with any remaining whipped cream alongside.

To watch Molly Baz and Adam Rapoport make a Pumpkin Chiffon Pie click on the video player below:


A New Flavor for Bon Appétit

ONE would think that after the first day on the job, the new editor in chief of Bon Appétit magazine would be entitled to a soft chair and a stiff drink. But no. On Monday night, Adam Rapoport was bouncing between a backyard grill covered with lamb chops and a bubbling potful of corn oil and French fries.

Rashly (and graciously), he had agreed to feed dinner to a total stranger, under the merciless eyes of his 2-year-old son, his wife and a photographer. He seemed unafraid, a quality that will stand him in good stead in the high echelons of the magazine business, which he entered Monday as the head of Condé Nast’s second-largest-circulation magazine. (The largest is Glamour.) Mr. Rapoport, 40 and for the last decade an editor at GQ magazine, may be in for a bumpy ride.

Just over a year ago, Condé Nast abruptly shuttered Gourmet magazine, dismissed many of its employees, and began sending its subscribers Bon Appétit instead, a move still bitterly mourned by some Gourmet loyalists.

Since then, television-based food magazines like Every Day with Rachael Ray and Food Network magazine have rapidly gained readers. Both publications also have highly developed and well-branded Web sites, neither of which can be said of Bon Appétit. Now, Bon Appétit is the biggest old-guard food magazine left standing, at a time when monthly magazines overall are struggling, but food, most definitely, is thriving.

The magazine he took over this week “can and should build on the massive interest in food in this country,” said Mr. Rapoport, prodding the lamb chops for doneness with increasing urgency. The French fries were already cooling on paper towels, proving that Mr. Rapoport, like most excellent home cooks, is not immune to the perils of timing a meal. “My idea of a good time is to stand around the grill with my friends, drinks in hand, staring at a big piece of meat and talking about it,” he said.

The madeleines afterward were perfectly done then again, they were made not by Mr. Rapoport but by his wife, Simone Shubuck, an artist and occasional contributor to T: The Times Style Magazine’s blog. She also does the flowers at the restaurant Babbo (where they met). It was clear from the verbal shorthand that they cook often and comfortably together. (Though less often since the arrival of Marlon in 2007, a cheese enthusiast whose jailbreaks from his crib were being tracked on a grainy video monitor.)

Among friends, Mr. Rapoport is known for producing a lot of simple, stylish food, occasionally at a very late hour. “I don’t think anyone cares as much about what he eats as Adam,” said Mitchell Davis, the head of publications for the James Beard Foundation. At GQ, Mr. Rapoport covered food in his role as style editor, which also involved regular attendance at men’s fashion shows in Milan, Paris and London, and the occasional round of golf with Justin Timberlake. “It definitely sends a message,” Mr. Davis said of Mr. Rapoport’s selection. “Putting a GQ-style editor in the Bon Appétit job confirms that food is part of being an informed, stylish, with-it kind of person.”

Being that kind of person is clearly important to Mr. Rapoport, who name-checked the brand of socks he was wearing (St. James) and revealed a deeply held longing to look like a member of the Clash.

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In both food and fashion, he said, “you can be pretentious over the top, or you can be interested and entertained in a way that improves your quality of life,” he said. “I’m definitely of the school that believes that a nice dinner with your wife on a Tuesday night can make your day.”

The change in editors follows Condé Nast’s announcement in September that Bon Appétit’s offices would move to New York from Los Angeles. Barbara Fairchild, the editor in chief, declined to make the move she has worked for the magazine for more than 30 years. The fate of Bon Appétit’s other Los Angeles employees is to be determined.

As recently as five years ago, the landscape of food magazines seemed clearly drawn. Bon Appétit was accessible, highly professional, and in the business of providing recipes, recipes, and more recipes, largely devoid of text and context. “It was the fairly cosmopolitan cooking magazine: not as chef-y as Food and Wine, not as rootsy as Saveur, not as complex as Gourmet, which had stories about Christmas cookies alongside reporting on tomato workers in Florida,” said Colman Andrews, a co-founder of Saveur and formerly a contributing editor at Gourmet. “Now, it’s almost impossible to say which direction a monthly magazine should go.” Mr. Andrews is the editorial director of a food and drink Web site, TheDailyMeal.com. “Maybe it should go all digital and rename itself Bon App.”

In 1994, Mr. Rapoport got his first job involving food when he was hired as an assistant in the publications office of the James Beard Foundation, giving him access to chefs like Daniel Boulud and Joël Robuchon (who developed the French-fry method Mr. Rapoport was using). In 1997, when Time Out New York needed a dedicated editor for food and restaurants, Mr. Rapoport got that job, then moved to GQ in 2000.

Mr. Rapoport graduated from the University of California at Berkeley in 1992 but grew up in Washington, the son of a journalist who covered Capitol Hill in the 1960s and 1970s. Later, his father, Dan, started a small publishing company, and his mother’s cooking skills were incorporated into the family business with a 1984 publication: “The Pasta Salad Book,” a spiral-bound book that Mr. Rapoport said has sold more than 100,000 copies. “Pasta salad was what everyone wanted to make back then,” he said, “I guess it taught me that there could be trendiness and excitement around food.” (His mother, Maxine, he added, is a longtime subscriber to Bon Appétit.)

Some would argue that trendiness and excitement are no longer enough. “There are so many serious food issues today — sustainability, politics, the environment, health, social justice — and a bigger appetite than ever for information about them,” Ruth Reichl, the former editor in chief of Gourmet, wrote in an e-mail. Mr. Rapoport says that he will be mindful of those issues — making sure the magazine does not call for endangered fish in its recipes, for example — but does not see education as the magazine’s primary role.

The question that many have about Mr. Rapoport is whether he will be able to combine his passions for grass-fed meat, restaurant-kitchen tricks, and global cocktail fashions with the needs of the working mothers, hard-core entertainers, and novice cooks who are seen as Bon Appétit’s core audience.

Although Mr. Rapoport and Condé Nast remained cagey about his plans for the magazine, he will most likely be given a great deal of leeway. “Adam has a lot of hiring to do” said Thomas Wallace, editorial director of Condé Nast, confirming that the magazine will, in a sense, be rebuilt from the ground up in New York. Mr. Rapoport admitted to a personal passion for page design and photography. (Currently, Bon Appétit is most notable for its dramatic “hard light” shots, which make the food look like a celebrity caught leaving a nightclub.) There will be more softness, more texture, more luminosity, he said. And just possibly, more celebrities.

“Everything you see, you should want to eat, or buy,” he said. “That’s the job.”


Salt and Pepper Rib Eye Steak

Ingredients US Metric

  • 1 (2-pound) bone-in rib eye steak (1 1/2 to 2 inches | 4 to 5 cm thick)
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns
  • Vegetable oil, for brushing
  • Coarse sea salt

Directions

Pat the steak dry with paper towels and place it on a wire rack situated on a rimmed baking sheet. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt per side. Let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour. Pat it dry with paper towels again and reseason it with 1/2 teaspoon salt per side and 1/2 teaspoon cracked peppercorns per side, pressing so the seasoning adheres.

If making the rib eye on the stovetop, see the variation below. If making the rib eye on the grill, build a two-zone (medium-hot and medium-low) fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to high just before cooking, leaving one burner on low. Brush the grill grate with oil. Place the steak over the higher heat, close the heat, and cook, flipping it just once, until nicely charred, 3 to 4 minutes per side. (If a flare-up occurs, use tongs to gently slide the steak to a cooler part of the grill until the flames subside.) Move the steak to lower heat and cook, flipping once, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Using tongs, lift the steak and sear both edges (the bone side and the fatcap side) for 1 to 2 minutes per side to render some of the fat. Measure the temperature of the steak to ascertain when it has reached the desired temperature. For rare steak, it will take 14 to 18 minutes total grilling time to reach 120°F (49°C) although it will carry over to 125°F (51°C), or medium-rare, as it rests.

Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. Slice it against the grain and season it with coarse sea salt. You know what to do from here.

Variations

Got 6 inches of snow blanketing your grill? Forget the grill and instead slap this magnificent cut of steak in a large cast iron skillet that you’ve been heating and heating and heating over medium-high heat until it’s consistently hot but not smoking. Cook the steak, turning once, until nicely seared on each side. Transfer the steak and skillet to a preheated 350°F (180°C) oven until cooked to the desired degree of doneness. Let it rest for at least 10 minutes and season with salt.

If you can only get your hands on a boneless rib eye rather than a bone-in rib eye, no worries. That’ll work. Whether you’re cooking it on the grill or the stovetop, keep a watchful eye on your steak as it will probably need to cook for a touch less time than indicated in the recipe.

Recipe Testers' Reviews

Who knew a little bit of salt and a little bit of time could transform an everyday rib eye steak into something amazing?! I adore this recipe and will be using this technique to wow guests in the future when I serve the most flavorful, tender steaks they’ve ever had!

This salt and pepper rib eye steak was just perfect. Everyone loved them. Dad especially liked it.

I followed the directions exactly. Seared on each side for 3 minutes and then moved to the low side of the grill for 3 minutes on each side. I only did the edges for about 45 seconds each. I was using boneless rib eye steaks. They were crisp, crunchy, salty, and peppery on the outside and absolutely perfectly rare to medium-rare inside.

This will now be my go-to method for the gas grill on a steak of that thickness (mine was 2 inches) for future forays into the “man land” of grilling.

Simple and delicious, this salt and pepper rib eye steak is what grilling a steak should be all about.

The directions are clear and easy to follow. We made 2 steaks, as there were more than 2 of us eating dinner. Make sure you get a good-quality steak as that’s what you’ll be tasting. For this recipe, quality counts. While it seems like a lot of salt at first glance, the steak was perfectly seasoned when done. I used a coarsely ground black pepper because I don’t care for cracked pepper.

This recipe was a big hit. I’d ask that a temperature range for the grill be mentioned. On our gas grill, and many charcoal grills I’ve seen, there’s a temperature gauge prominently displayed to show how hot the grill is. My grill man was confused as to how hot the grill should be before he added the steaks. Also, I think it’s imperative to make sure that the steaks are at least 1 1/2 inches thick. We did have one that was a little on the thinner side and while tasty, it wasn’t as juicy or tender as the other.

You know the old saying: Keep It Simple, S—–. Well, there’s nothing stupid about this. Rib eye is so perfectly marbled and I think that seasoning the steak and letting it sit before seasoning it again really brings out the flavor of this remarkable piece of beef.

Rib eye happens to be my husband’s favorite entree, whether at home or in a restaurant. Since his birthday is this week, I wanted to test it. I found that searing it over the high heat really locks in the juices and gives it great color. In my world, color is flavor! Finishing it on the side with lower heat allows you to cook it through to your desired doneness. Patting it with the paper towel is one key the other is a CHARCOAL GRILL. Amazing flavor. Simply delicious!

I don’t give many 10s, but this salt and pepper rib eye steak is one for the books. The two-step salting process is like a quick dry age (really quick). There are rumors that salting meat before cooking makes it tough, but the recipe disproves that theory, at least for a well-marbled rib eye. There isn’t much else to be said about this straightforward recipe: simple in execution, rich in taste.

Purchase the finest rib eye you can find, and this will produce a DAZZLING steak.

Yum! There’s not much to this salt and pepper rib eye steak recipe, but the instructions are clear and the end results are fantastic. I don’t have a single edit to the directions—just follow them to the letter and you’ll end up with perfect steak. I happen to like my steak medium-rare to medium, so I just let it sit for 20 minutes instead of 10 and it got there.

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